Profile of Chengdu chef Lan Guijun and his restaurant, Yu Zhi Lan, which aims for “luxury, intimacy and culinary perfection”, modelled on Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. The cuisine is “a virtuoso display of Sichuanese cooking skills with echoes of Japanese aesthetics”. Lan’s achievement makes Michelin’s failure to award stars to restaurants in China, beyond Hong Kong and Macau, look more and more anomalous (2,460 words)
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